C: wmic memorychip get serialnumber SerialNumber 91AB9A10 9EBD9A10 Get serial number for hard disks wmic diskdrive get serialnumber Example: c: wmic diskdrive get serialnumber SerialNumber FR3AG13032430BC13S Get serial number for mother boards wmic baseboard get serialnumber Get Serial number for cdrom drive wmic cdrom where drive='d:' get SerialNumber Replace ‘d:’ with the drive letter for the cdrom on your computer. You get error ‘No Instance(s) available’ if you don’t have CDROM drive on your computer.
C: wmic cdrom get SerialNumber No Instance(s) Available.
Need for find the serial number for my ECS Z87H3-M for the rebate. The only number I can locate on the front of the board has EA= in front of it. But this number doesn't follow the serial number format they listed here which says it should be 1 letter, 5 numbers, 1 letter, 8 numbers PC Wizard also shows all my serial numbers for the board as 00000000 Is it possible the serial number is located on the back of the board? (I would really hate to rip my entire system apart to find it) or should I just use the EA= number and hope for the best?
Not as far as I can see, the only thing I saw resembling an SN was the label on the front of the board which isn't anywhere near the same number. Have to imagine that the number on the box is the SN and it's just one digit off of their formula for whatever reason. Considering the misinformation on their site about the location of the SN not surprising that there could be misinformation about the potential formula for the SN. Anyway thanks a lot for the help, can't believe I even considered pulling out my mobo because the number on the box didn't fit their formula exactly.
Hi monemas, You can take a following code in Windows 7. Dim ms As ManagementScope = New ManagementScope(' ' & Environment.MachineName & ' root cimv2') ms.Connect Dim wmiClass As ManagementObject = New ManagementObject(ms, New ManagementPath('Win32BaseBoard.Tag='Base Board'), New ObjectGetOptions) Dim sn As String = wmiClass.Properties.Cast(Of PropertyData).Where(Function(p) p.Name = 'SerialNumber').FirstOrDefault.Value.ToString Console.WriteLine(sn) Console.ReadKey(False) Best Regards, Cherry MSDN Community Support Please remember to click 'Mark as Answer' the responses that resolved your issue, and to click 'Unmark as Answer' if not. This can be beneficial to other community members reading this thread. If you have any compliments or complaints to MSDN Support, feel free to contact.
Many people want to find out their motherboard manufacturer without having to open their computer. In other cases, such as upgrading the BIOS and seeking drivers for the board, the manufacturer and model of a motherboard must be known.
The motherboard manufacturer can be found through the BIOS serial number. This number is shown onscreen (lower line) during the memory count that is always run when you turn your computer on. If you have never paid any attention, press the Pause key on your keyboard when the memory is being counted and you will be able to read the BIOS serial number from the frozen display. The same line contains important information, like the BIOS date. This information is important when you are considering upgrading your BIOS, to find out on the board manufacturer’s site whether there is or not a later version of BIOS than the one your computer is currently using (we have already explained how to upgrade BIOS.
Please refer to, if required). For instance, assume that that the motherboard indicates the following number onscreen while counting memory: -VT8366-8233/5-JL6LVC0CC-00.
Painlessly, we can deduce two things: the BIOS date (BIOS version) is, and the motherboard uses VIA chipset VT8366 and VT8233/5, widely known as VIA KT333. There are three major BIOS software manufacturers, AMI, Award and Phoenix (Phoenix has recently bought Award).
The format of serial numbers used by these manufacturers varies, as we will see below. Deciphering Award BIOS The format of BIOS Award’s serial number is shown in Figure 1, where we can see that the first five digits indicate which chipset is used by the motherboard, the next two digits indicating the motherboard’s manufacturer and the meaning of the remaining digits depends on the motherboard’s manufacturer. Figure 1: Award Serial Number. As you will notice, this information is encoded. To decode it, you must use a table given in. Check the serial number used in the above example, of a PCChips motherboard with chipset VX Pro (which is a rebranded VIA Apollo VP1). Deciphering AMI BIOS The AMI BIOS serial number is longer than Award’s one.
The motherboard manufacturer is coded in the last four digits of the third group of numbers, counting from left to right, as shown in Figure 2. Figure 2: AMI Serial Number. In the same way as Award BIOS, you will have to consult a table to determine the manufacturer corresponding to the number you have found. This can be done. Check the serial number of our example, which is a motherboard made by PCChips.
The major difference between AMI and Award’s serial numbers is that the former usually contains information on the model of motherboard directly recorded in the serial number. For instance, serial number 61-1210-01111-071595-M747 is a PCChips M747 motherboard and serial number 51-0505-01111-071595-M1531/43-01-10-TX-PRO-0 corresponds to a PCChips motherboard using TX Pro chipset. Note that there are exceptions to the rules described, mainly when dealing with PCChips motherboards. Looking at the serial number of a M747 motherboard you can see that the manufacturer’s ID is an invalid number (there is no 0747 manufacturer); instead of identifying the manufacturer (PCChips), it is giving the model (M747).
Whenever a motherboard’s serial number does not conform to the rules described, you may be dealing with a PCChips piece.
Parsec's PC Specs Motherboard ASR Z97 Extreme 6. ASRock Z87 Extreme 6 Motherboard BIOS version 1.70. 2.40 Processor Intel Xeon E3-1276 v3. Pentium G3258 Memory Samsung MV-3 16GB 2000 1.35V. 8GB 1866 1.35V Video Card #1 EVGA 760. Nvidia GTX 650.
Hard Drive #1 SanDisk Ex Pro 240GB. SanDisk Ex Pro 240GB Hard Drive #2 Samsung 840 Pro x2 RAID 0. Intel 730 x2 RAID 0 Hard Drive #3 Samsung 830 x2 RAID 0. Crucial MX100 512GB Hard Drive #6 Various 1TB - 2.2TB HDDs external Optical Drive #1 LG BD UH10SL20 - unplugged Case Fractal R4. Nanoxia Deep Silence I.
Cooler Scythe Mugen 4. Scythe Mugen II Keyboard Microsoft Sculpt Comfort. Microsoft Comfort Curve Mouse Microsoft Sculpt, MS Arc Touch, Logitech G100S Power Supply Seasonic X660 Platinum.
Seasonic X660 Gold. Sound Card Onboard digital out to outboard DAC Monitor Dell P2714H, Dell U2312HM, ASUS VS24A Operating System Windows 8.1 Update 1 Pro 64bit UEFI Boot, Win 10. Any idea what the IBuyPower model number of the PC is?
Any paper work at all, a link to where you bought it? Emails if you bought in on line? Find it on IBuyPower's website? My ASRock board's serial number has nothing in it that is related to the model number that I can see. IBuyPower sells many different models of PCs, you must give us some more information to go on. Usually a mother board has some kind of writing on it that shows the model, for example: Near the middle of the board we find ASRock Z87 Extreme6, which might be hidden by a video card, but it's worth looking.
Occasionally a board manufacture might make mother board models only for a manufacture like IBuyPower, so it might be difficult to get a manual. Did your problem just start happening after the PC worked, or is it doing this out of the box? The computer is two years old. We had a power outage, and now it won't boot.
It won't post, and I don't hear any post codes, but all of the fans power up, and the case lights too. I went out and bought a new power supply, but that doesn't seem to work.
Tried resetting the cmos, using the jumper, that didn't work. Tried pulling the cmos battery out. That didn't work. Took the ram out, one stick at a time, and that didn't work. Took the video card out, that didn't work. Disconnected the hard drive, (which does spin up) that didn't work.
Took them all out, drive, all the ram, and video card, that didn't work. I get no beeps. Here's the history. This is the second power-out issue event.
A few weeks back, power went out, and the computer wouldn't post, no video out, just like now. Took it to best buy, they hooked it to their monitor, and it booted! (I've check our monitor with another PC. Works fine.) I took the computer home, tried to start it, and no luck again. Won't post, no beeps, no video-out. Then I had an idea. I disconnected it from our surge protector strip (a few other things are connected to it) and I connected the power cord directly into the outlet.
It booted up! I figured the surge protector had taken a hit and couldn't output the voltage or amps that the computer needed.
So I left the computer plugged directly into the outlet, and ordered a new surge protector. I received the surge protector, but I forgot to plug the computer into it. So, then, a few weeks later, we had another power outage, and the computer was plugged directly into the wall at the time! First thought is that a surge fried something, but because of the first issue we had, a few weeks prior, it makes me wonder whether it's actually something else wrong. Perhaps the same thing that prevented the computer from posting the first time a couple of weeks ago.
Corrupt CMOS? I tried to reset it by using the jumper and by removing the battery.
Help!; ) Maybe there is NO onboard speaker? I'm nearly positive there is.
I remember hearing the thing post and beep before. Last edited by blacktop; at 11:00 PM. Parsec's PC Specs Motherboard ASR Z97 Extreme 6. ASRock Z87 Extreme 6 Motherboard BIOS version 1.70. 2.40 Processor Intel Xeon E3-1276 v3. Pentium G3258 Memory Samsung MV-3 16GB 2000 1.35V. 8GB 1866 1.35V Video Card #1 EVGA 760.
Nvidia GTX 650. Hard Drive #1 SanDisk Ex Pro 240GB. SanDisk Ex Pro 240GB Hard Drive #2 Samsung 840 Pro x2 RAID 0. Intel 730 x2 RAID 0 Hard Drive #3 Samsung 830 x2 RAID 0. Crucial MX100 512GB Hard Drive #6 Various 1TB - 2.2TB HDDs external Optical Drive #1 LG BD UH10SL20 - unplugged Case Fractal R4. Nanoxia Deep Silence I. Cooler Scythe Mugen 4.
Scythe Mugen II Keyboard Microsoft Sculpt Comfort. Microsoft Comfort Curve Mouse Microsoft Sculpt, MS Arc Touch, Logitech G100S Power Supply Seasonic X660 Platinum. Seasonic X660 Gold. Sound Card Onboard digital out to outboard DAC Monitor Dell P2714H, Dell U2312HM, ASUS VS24A Operating System Windows 8.1 Update 1 Pro 64bit UEFI Boot, Win 10.
Could be an onboard speaker, the ASRock boards I have don't. But the PC may not be getting to the point where it would beep, it does not sound like it. Interesting that the power outage took out the surge protector to the point it would not pass power through it! That is good, but IMO indicates a nasty spike in the first place. Some PC power supplies have the same part used in surge protectors (called a MOV), which may have been damaged by the second spike.
Hopefully (believe it or not) the power supply is the only thing that was damaged in the second incident. Do you have a friend with a PC that might have a spare power supply you can try?
If the PC does nothing, no fans running or any LEDs on the board lighting up, it could be no power getting to the board. If you use a wired connection for your Internet connection to the PC, you can try this for a test: With the PC plugged into AC power, turn the switch on the power supply to off. Let it sit like that for a minute or two. Then find where the cable you use to connect the PC to your network/Internet source plugs into the PC.
There are normally one or two small LEDs right next to the jack where the Internet cable plugs in. Watch that area closely, and turn the PSU switch on. Within about 5 seconds, you should see one or more of those LEDs lighting up and flashing on and off. If you don't see the LEDs come on, either the board is not getting power from the power supply, or the board itself may be ruined. Could be an onboard speaker, the ASRock boards I have don't. But the PC may not be getting to the point where it would beep, it does not sound like it.
Interesting that the power outage took out the surge protector to the point it would not pass power through it! That is good, but IMO indicates a nasty spike in the first place. Some PC power supplies have the same part used in surge protectors (called a MOV), which may have been damaged by the second spike. Hopefully (believe it or not) the power supply is the only thing that was damaged in the second incident. Do you have a friend with a PC that might have a spare power supply you can try? If the PC does nothing, no fans running or any LEDs on the board lighting up, it could be no power getting to the board. If you use a wired connection for your Internet connection to the PC, you can try this for a test: With the PC plugged into AC power, turn the switch on the power supply to off.
Let it sit like that for a minute or two. Then find where the cable you use to connect the PC to your network/Internet source plugs into the PC. There are normally one or two small LEDs right next to the jack where the Internet cable plugs in. Watch that area closely, and turn the PSU switch on.
Within about 5 seconds, you should see one or more of those LEDs lighting up and flashing on and off. If you don't see the LEDs come on, either the board is not getting power from the power supply, or the board itself may be ruined.Thanks for the reply Parsec. Actually, I did go out and buy a brand new power supply, hooked it up, and the computer will still not boot. I don't even think it's posting, but I'll have to check the speaker. The motherboard fans do in fact come on, and so does the PCI video card. The motherboard model is P67 Pro 3 SE. I ordered one of those $5 diagnostic cards and should receive it on Monday.
Asrock Amd Motherboard
I just went out and bought a new battery for the cmos, and will install it tomorrow to see whether that has any effect. Parsec's PC Specs Motherboard ASR Z97 Extreme 6. ASRock Z87 Extreme 6 Motherboard BIOS version 1.70. 2.40 Processor Intel Xeon E3-1276 v3. Pentium G3258 Memory Samsung MV-3 16GB 2000 1.35V.
8GB 1866 1.35V Video Card #1 EVGA 760. Nvidia GTX 650.
Hard Drive #1 SanDisk Ex Pro 240GB. SanDisk Ex Pro 240GB Hard Drive #2 Samsung 840 Pro x2 RAID 0. Intel 730 x2 RAID 0 Hard Drive #3 Samsung 830 x2 RAID 0. Crucial MX100 512GB Hard Drive #6 Various 1TB - 2.2TB HDDs external Optical Drive #1 LG BD UH10SL20 - unplugged Case Fractal R4.
Nanoxia Deep Silence I. Cooler Scythe Mugen 4. Scythe Mugen II Keyboard Microsoft Sculpt Comfort. Microsoft Comfort Curve Mouse Microsoft Sculpt, MS Arc Touch, Logitech G100S Power Supply Seasonic X660 Platinum. Seasonic X660 Gold. Sound Card Onboard digital out to outboard DAC Monitor Dell P2714H, Dell U2312HM, ASUS VS24A Operating System Windows 8.1 Update 1 Pro 64bit UEFI Boot, Win 10.
Well, that's good and not good. POST would display the ASRock or IBuyPower logo screens, or other text on the monitor. If you have a speaker and POST completes, you'll get one short beep, if there are errors during POST, you'll get multiple beep codes. Some boards can turn the beeping on or off in the BIOS. If you get nothing at all on the monitor, it did not start to POST.
Another thought, power surges, etc, can damage other things too, like monitors. Mcgraw hill ebook download. Does your monitor's LED light up, and does it go into sleep mode due to no signal? If the monitor goes to sleep, that means no signal from the video source.
Your board has no video outputs for the on-CPU graphics, which would be something to try if you could. Impossible to check if the video card is damaged without having another. So the board is getting power, and the fans running is a good sign, but not conclusive, the video card, CPU, or other parts on the board still could be damaged. If your drives were dead, the board would still POST. The board needs the CPU to work in order to POST. Just to check, be sure to connect the eight (or four) pin CPU power cable to the plug at the top of the board, the CPU won't run without it.
If you have any external devices connected by USB, unplug them, besides the mouse and keyboard of course. If you didn't find your board's page at ASRock, this is it: I doubt if the manual will be of any help diagnosing your problem. Let us know what happens.
Well, that's good and not good. POST would display the ASRock or IBuyPower logo screens, or other text on the monitor. If you have a speaker and POST completes, you'll get one short beep, if there are errors during POST, you'll get multiple beep codes. Some boards can turn the beeping on or off in the BIOS. If you get nothing at all on the monitor, it did not start to POST. Another thought, power surges, etc, can damage other things too, like monitors.
Does your monitor's LED light up, and does it go into sleep mode due to no signal? If the monitor goes to sleep, that means no signal from the video source. Your board has no video outputs for the on-CPU graphics, which would be something to try if you could. Impossible to check if the video card is damaged without having another. So the board is getting power, and the fans running is a good sign, but not conclusive, the video card, CPU, or other parts on the board still could be damaged. If your drives were dead, the board would still POST.
The board needs the CPU to work in order to POST. Just to check, be sure to connect the eight (or four) pin CPU power cable to the plug at the top of the board, the CPU won't run without it. If you have any external devices connected by USB, unplug them, besides the mouse and keyboard of course. If you didn't find your board's page at ASRock, this is it: I doubt if the manual will be of any help diagnosing your problem. Let us know what happens.The monitor is ok, I checked it with a laptop. The CPU power cable is connected. I may have another video card laying around that I can try.
As I understand it though, I should still get beeps even if there is no card installed. I removed the existing card, still no beeps. I want to check the motherboard speaker. Thanks, I did find the manual.
I notice that it's pin 18 that has the speaker pins. I don't remember seeing anything connected to it, and I'm pretty sure there is no speaker soldered to the motherboard. I do know there is a speaker somewhere that would beep during post, as I remember using it to enter safe mode a few months back. I'll have to check that out.
Parsec's PC Specs Motherboard ASR Z97 Extreme 6. ASRock Z87 Extreme 6 Motherboard BIOS version 1.70. 2.40 Processor Intel Xeon E3-1276 v3. Pentium G3258 Memory Samsung MV-3 16GB 2000 1.35V. 8GB 1866 1.35V Video Card #1 EVGA 760. Nvidia GTX 650.
Hard Drive #1 SanDisk Ex Pro 240GB. SanDisk Ex Pro 240GB Hard Drive #2 Samsung 840 Pro x2 RAID 0. Intel 730 x2 RAID 0 Hard Drive #3 Samsung 830 x2 RAID 0. Crucial MX100 512GB Hard Drive #6 Various 1TB - 2.2TB HDDs external Optical Drive #1 LG BD UH10SL20 - unplugged Case Fractal R4.
Nanoxia Deep Silence I. Cooler Scythe Mugen 4. Scythe Mugen II Keyboard Microsoft Sculpt Comfort. Microsoft Comfort Curve Mouse Microsoft Sculpt, MS Arc Touch, Logitech G100S Power Supply Seasonic X660 Platinum. Seasonic X660 Gold. Sound Card Onboard digital out to outboard DAC Monitor Dell P2714H, Dell U2312HM, ASUS VS24A Operating System Windows 8.1 Update 1 Pro 64bit UEFI Boot, Win 10. Some PC cases have a speaker built into the case.
That is kinda old school now, but it works. The connection is just two wires or one plug into the board. Built in speakers on boards is really old school now, I doubt your board has one. You're right it should beep without a card, or without memory. But I really get the feeling that board is not even starting POST, sorry to say. Frankly, I would not depend on POST beep codes to diagnose your problem, they are rather basic, memory or video issues mainly.
The diagnostic card you're getting will hopefully show POST codes, two digit numbers that tell you what part of the POST process failed. But if you get no codes, the board is likely damaged, and code '00' usually means a dead CPU.
Comments are closed.
|
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |